This beautiful used terracotta planter was up for sale for $20 on craigslist. I spotted it yesterday afternoon, and by the evening, it was mine! It's a substantial weight and has drainage holes.
Pickled food waste that comes out of the Bokashi bucket must be mixed with soil in order to complete the composting process, and I don't think this planter will be big enough for the entire contents of my bucket plus soil. I'm still going to get some Rubbermaid tubs to hold the rest, but this will be a good size to start a nice little herb garden. I'm sure my gardener friend would be happy to use whatever excess black gold I end up with in her raised garden beds.
Hi, I buy your Kombucha regularly from Whole Foods in Glendale and Pasadena.
I've been concerned about the growing number of bottles accumulating at home. I haven't wanted to recycle them, because I have heard that energy-wise it is better to reuse than recycle.
When I was buying some of your "Trilogy" drink from Whole Foods this morning, I was pleased to learn that all bottles returned to the store by customers are taken back by their vendors.
My question is - when you take back your empty GT's Kombucha bottles from Whole Foods, what happens then? Are they washed and refilled, or are they carted away to a recycle center? I would really appreciate hearing back from you, as my concern about creating unnecessary waste is actually what has been holding me back from enjoying as much Kombucha as I'd like.
This note under the "Community" section on your website was actually quite concerning to me: http://gtskombucha.com/com_bell.html, because if you in fact are willing to take back your bottles for reuse, then these avid Kombucha drinkers should not be sending their bottles to the recycle bin!
I noticed the header on that section of your site read "A community focused on health and vitality" - for me, the health and vitality of the planet are important to my own well-being, as well as potentially that of future generations.
I hope you will take the time to answer my question about whether your company refills used Kombucha bottles.
Thanks very much, and happy new year!
I was unable to reach anyone at GT's Kombucha by phone so far this morning, but this gives me hope that when they take back their bottles from Whole Foods, they are washed and reused. If this is indeed the case, I would strongly advocate returning your Kombucha bottles to Whole Foods instead of taking them to a recycling center or tossing them in the recycle bin for curbside pickup. In fact, if you buy any beverage from Whole Foods, please return the empty container there. Not only will you get your 5-cent deposit back, but you will give the bottles a chance to be reused instead of recycled.
I also called my local Ralph's and Pavilions/Vons grocery stores to inquire about their CRV policies. Pavilions does not take back any containers - they must be taken to a recycling center to retrieve your deposit. Ralph's takes back only select glass milk bottles. If you are concerned about maximizing the life cycle of beverage containers, Whole Foods seems like the place to shop.
My most frequent grocery stop has long been Trader Joe's - it's affordable, small and neighborly, and for delicious, convenient prepared foods they can't be beat. However, despite their in-your-face encouragement to bring your own shopping bags, it's a packaging nightmare there.
There is a limited amount of produce that isn't wrapped, bagged, or boxed in plastic, and they offer no bulk dry goods. I used to live one block from the original Trader Joe's store in South Pasadena, and would walk there almost daily. I still hold a soft spot in my heart for good ol' TJ's, but as I think harder about the environmental impacts of my lifestyle, I have been leaning more toward shopping at Whole Foods.
I've read criticisms of Whole Foods that accuse the retailer of misrepresenting, through signs in the store, the proportion of their produce that is grown locally. In my opinion, however, Whole Foods has advantages over more conventional grocers. Yes, many things are quite pricey at Whole Foods, but they carry a wide selection of bulk dry goods, and also offer things that are difficult to find elsewhere (like raw milk, Kombucha, and natural personal care and beauty products). After learning today that beverage bottles all go back to their sources, I have yet another reason to favor shopping at Whole Foods!
The Dervaes family have a mini-farm in their backyard, on about one tenth of an acre - the same size as the garden in which I've been helping out on weekends. In this limited space, they grow vegetables and raise chickens, ducks, and pygmy goats to provide eggs and milk to feed the family. Furthermore, they run a number of businesses from their home, including selling their produce to local restaurants, and the online Peddler's Wagon shop retailing products for "green living."
When I registered for the food and film night, I browsed around on the Dervaes' "Little Homestead in the City" blog, and noticed that they practice Bokashi composting at home. I was looking forward to chatting with these experienced urban farmers/eco-pioneers about their tips on using Bokashi, but they really had their hands full with what seemed like a successful event!
I attended with the gardener who I have been helping, and brought my (now signature) zucchini bread made from one of her organically-grown zucchinis picked last week. I have heard some people lament that organic practices produce lower yields than conventional farming. This zucchini must have been the exception to the rule - it was at least 16" long, and about 5" in diameter - you would never find something like that at the grocery store! It produced 5 loaves of zucchini bread, which I shared at work, a Christmas party, the film and food night, and with other friends.
My gardener friend also practices composting at home. The main compost heap runs between her home and a fence, and is piled with branches, trimmings, and other traditional yard waste. This heap is basically left to itself to slowly decompose over a period of many months.
She also has a "Tumbleweed" compost bin such as the one pictured below, which is designed for speedier composting. By tumbling the compost rather than leaving it to sit passively, air is worked into the decaying matter, and the different materials are also mixed more evenly. Last weekend, we deposited newspapers (carbon) covered with fresh chicken droppings (rich in nitrogen) from the chicken coop into the Tumbleweed bin and gave it a spin.
At the gardener's house, there is no need for a worm bin or Bokashi bucket because most food scraps are fed to her grateful hens. We also toss the hens piles of fresh, green yard waste like weeds, overgrown herbs, and grape leaves. The chickens have a large wooden coop in which to lay eggs and roost at night, and also a wire-enclosed run where the green scraps are tossed.
In addition, each day two hens are selected for a few hours in the "chicken tractor." The chicken tractor is essentially a small, mobile, bottom-less chicken coop. Inside, the hens happily scratch, dig, and forage for grubs, bugs, grass, and weeds. In an urban environment, the last thing we need is for the little flock to get demolished by dogs, hawks, or cars - or for the little garden to get demolished by free-roaming hens! The chicken tractor is a nice compromise that allows the hens to forage, while protecting the chickens from predators and preventing them from eating areas of the garden that you do not want uprooted.
Chicken eggs are supposedly more nutritious (higher in Omega-3 fatty acids) when chickens are allowed to feed on a mixed diet - and not just fed commercial chicken feed. If you are trying to shop for humane, more nutritious eggs, look for those labeled "pastured." Labeling is confusing, as "cage free" doesn't necessarily mean the chickens were truly free-range - just not kept in cramped factory cages. Also, "vegetarian" means the hens were fed a commercial chicken feed that doesn't contain animal parts - a good thing, but not ideal, since hens are omnivores and are happiest when they have access to live grubs and bugs.
I do believe the fresh eggs from my gardener friend's hens are truly more nutritious. The beautiful light-brown shells are strong and harder to break, and the yolks are firm, very deep yellow, and are not runny. The eggs taste noticeably different too - no strong "eggy" flavor, but meaty with a satisfying texture. I am very happy to have a local source for such delicious eggs!
I've had my Bokashi system set up since the fourth week of October - so for over 2 months - and only now is it just about full. The food doesn't reach all the way to the lid yet, but it's getting harder to add scraps. I do it in weekly batches after storing it in the freezer, and the food comes out of my salvaged cottage cheese tubs in large, frozen blocks.
It's possible I was able to go longer because I made my own bins out of 6-gallon buckets, versus the ready-made Bokashi kits that have about a 5-gallon capacity - but that is only 20% bigger, and I've gone 400% longer.
I am usually feeding 1-2 people, not 3, and we don't leave any scraps on our plates. Perhaps the "average" households that the Bokashi bucket manufacturers refer to don't finish their dinners? Or cook with meat and as a result have a lot of bones? As I've been learning to cook with more fresh ingredients, I have had more scraps such as zucchini and pomegranate innards, but I still can't imagine filling a 5-gallon bucket in 2 weeks.
In any case, the time is near for emptying my Bokashi bucket for the first time. Last night, the juice I drained from the bucket smelled "cheesier" than usual. Perhaps this is because the matter at the bottom of the bucket has been there for so long - I think it's really ready to go!
I joined the Burbank-Glendale freecycle group and put out a plea for used planters or storage bins, and also contacted someone offering a very nice, used planter for sale through Los Angeles craigslist.
Here is a link that provides an easy step-by-step explanation of how to complete the last stage of Bokashi composting using a planter box or tub:
"How to use planters and EM compost to enjoy beautiful blooming"
This method is ideal for people who live in apartments, and don't have a yard in which to bury the fermented waste. Buried between layers of soil, the pickled scraps finally transform into "black gold" - and in a shorter time than with normal composting.
I would love if they would take back their bottles to be cleaned, refilled, and resold, as with milk in days of yore. In the meantime, I've simply resorted to reducing by just not consuming Kombucha more than once every few weeks as a special treat.
In exchange for 4-6 hours of help each day on the farm, visitors receive free meals and lodging. Many people use "WWOOFing" as an alternative way to travel on a tight budget. Others stay for longer apprenticeships or internships.
WWOOF-USA has its own directory (a $20 membership fee allows you access to the online directory for one year, as well as a printed copy of the WWOOF guide) - to participate in other countries you must apply directly to their respective WWOOF groups.
A long-time animal and nature-lover, I have always dreamed of living in a rural setting. My childhood home was in a suburban residential neighborhood, but surrounded by farmland. I had friends who lived on acres with fields, ponds, creeks, and apple orchards, and I hoped that someday I could raise animals on a hobby farm (even if not until retirement).
Although my mother is a prolific green thumb (a Master Gardener in fact), my own interest in gardening is more recent. With hopes of learning more about organic gardening practices, I signed up for WWOOF-USA recently.
As I was excitedly browsing through the WWOOF guide, I noticed one humble listing for a backyard CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) garden just 2 miles from where I work! I sent an e-mail to the gardener asking if I could volunteer for a few hours once a week in exchange for mentoring (and perhaps a few fresh veggies).
Imagine my delight when I went to meet the "urban farmer" who not only keeps a garden full of a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, but also 10 egg-laying hens! I have since helped out in the garden four times, and have enjoyed not only the hands-on experience of organic gardening, but also delicious, freshly-laid eggs, and zucchini that became zucchini bread for various holiday-season potlucks.
Cooking from scratch is a fairly new venture for me. I was a long-time lazy cook who relied on convenient, affordable, delicious frozen foods from Trader Joe's. For a variety of reasons, I have been making an effort to participate more in all the processes involved in putting food on my table - from the growing of vegetables to the preparing of dishes from scratch - to how food waste is disposed of. I have also been slowly "greening" my kitchen by transitioning from Teflon-coated "non-stick" pots and pans to cast iron and aluminum-core stainless steel cookware.
In future posts, I will go into more depth about my experiences in the local "WWOOF garden," experiments in the kitchen, kitchen equipment upgrades, attempts to reduce consumption of disposable or over-packaged goods, and much more.
Before I talk about my recent gardening adventures, let's review how Bokashi composting works.
Food scraps, including meat and acidic foods (restricted from conventional composting), are mixed with Bokashi "effective microbes" in an anaerobic environment. After a few weeks of fermenting, or pickling, the mixture is buried in soil, where it breaks down further.
Why aren't the food scraps simply buried in the ground in the first place? What is the purpose of pickling them first?
Remember, when food scraps, yard waste, and other organic matter are sent to the landfill, they naturally become buried under other trash. In these anaerobic conditions, the organic waste putrefies and releases methane. In contrast, with conventional composting, oxygen is a necessary ingredient for encouraging "healthy" decomposition by beneficial organisms.
One Bokashi EM retailer describes the process of Bokashi composting this way (emphases added):
"Bokashi will ferment the food waste, preventing it from rotting, and therefore eliminate odor and reduce the attraction to flies...The fermentation results in the breaking of lignin (fibers) in the food waste allowing the waste to break down within two weeks after being buried in the ground or incorporated into an existing compost pile...The fermentation is a stabilizing or preserving method during which vitamins, amino acids and antioxidants are increased, which will then become excellent nutrient sources for plants."
The way I interpret it, pickling has two main benefits:
- It modifies items such as meat into a form that favors decomposition by "beneficial" microorganisms, rather than attracting "pests" or promoting rotting
- The fermentation accelerates the composting process, which in conventional aerobic composting can take many months
I am not a professional specialist on composting, so any statements I've made about the mechanisms for composting are simply opinions based on information I've gathered. I haven't done any scientific research on composting myself, so the above are my interpretations of how Bokashi works its magic.
The material we call compost is referred to by many as "black gold." Revered by gardeners and farmers, compost enriches the soil.
I like this description from the City of Long Beach web site. For me, it evokes poetic images of leaves falling softly to the forest floor:
"Composting is a form of recycling that occurs in nature as vegetation falls to the ground and slowly decays. This process provides minerals and nutrients needed by soil, plants and small animals. Setting up a composting system in your backyard speeds up this natural process... The resulting material is called humus, an important component of healthy soil. The humus that results from composting adds nutrients to the soil that can increase the health of your plants and help save money ordinarily spent on fertilizers."
My city, Burbank, offers a bit more technical description of the function that compost serves. It is described as "a rich soil amendment that:
- Reduces the need for commercial fertilizers and pesticides
- Improves drainage and loosens heavy clay soils
- Conserves moisture in light sandy soils
- Produces healthier plants and slows evaporation, which reduces water usage
- Saves money on fertilizers and water
- Reduces the need for City collection of yard waste"
- Compost helps your garden grow without chemicals. Consequently, fewer toxins tracked into your house on your shoes, on your pets' feet, and in your homegrown food!
- Compost improves the quality of the soil and the health of plants. Both of these aspects help conserve water - very important in Southern California.
- Composting at home reduces waste collection by the city.
The third point ties in with my previous post about the negative impacts of sending organic waste to the dump. Some cities do have large-scale composting operations for yard waste too. However, keeping organic matter at home to convert it to compost has the added benefit of reducing emissions from the trucks that would have carted your yard waste away.
A recent article from the Washington Post summarizes this concept nicely:
"In this age of thrift and environmental concern, it seems bizarre that we then bag or curb our leaves to be taken away. And to where? Yard waste makes up 13 percent of our trash, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Many municipalities divert this away from landfills and into composting yards, where the leaves are shredded and piled into steaming mounds that are halfway decayed come spring; enterprising gardeners then collect it and return it to their yards. Wouldn't it make more sense, though, to keep the leaves on-site?"
Gardening is not only an enjoyable hobby for many - it has benefits that everyone can appreciate. Growing some of your own food, in particular, allows you to:
- Save money
- Gain practical skills
- Control how your food is grown
- Avoid toxic chemicals in your food
- Gain a sense of personal achievement
- Create low-cost gifts for friends
- Spend time connected to nature
- Promote national food security (independence from foreign foods!)
Admittedly, some of the points I listed above are quite subjective. I would really recommend checking out this article from Sierra Magazine, which I found quite inspiring.
If you have a yard or garden, it will be easy to find uses for your finished compost. But what if you don't have your own plot of land on which to plant, let alone start a compost heap? Just as there are ways to compost without a yard, there are also many ways to garden without a yard.
- If you live in a condo or an apartment with a balcony or patio, use planter boxes or pots
- Grow potted herbs on your kitchen counter or windowsill, or install a planter box on the outside of the window.
- Work on a plot in a community garden
- Find a friend who gardens, or offer up your black gold on freecycle or craigslist
I mentioned in a previous post that I was planning on starting a small planter box garden in an "upcycled" storage bin. I have since decided not to grow vegetables, but instead focus on a variety of herbs. Why? Point #4 above - I found a friend who gardens. Much more on that to come!
I look at the reasons for composting from two main angles:
- Prevents negative impacts of sending compostable waste to a landfill
- Provides positive benefits by enriching the soil
Aren't food scraps and yard waste biodegradable anyway - so won't it all just break down in the dump eventually?
The answer to this question is also twofold:
- Food and yard waste take up a lot of valuable space
- Decomposing organic matter releases a significant amount of methane
A larger issue, which I will explore later, is that so much food waste is generated in the first place. Between US consumers, retailers, and restaurants, an estimated 25%-50% of food is discarded. (Read more about food waste in these 2008 articles from CNN and The New York Times).
In my opinion, the most important leg of the "Reduce-Reuse-Recycle" mantra is the first: Reduce. If we all make an effort to be conscientious about how much waste is produced in the first place, we will have less composting, recycling, and disposing to worry about.
Nevertheless, most people don't eat banana peels and onion skins, so let's continue discussing how to deal with these materials. Organic waste takes up a great volume in landfills, which are a limited resource (I don't think it's a stretch to assume that the creation of more dumps would be an unsavory, non-ideal, not to mention unpopular solution). But perhaps even more far-reaching are the negative impacts of byproducts released during the decomposition of organic waste in landfills. Because food and yard waste become buried under other trash in landfills, there is little access to oxygen, and the organic waste rots anaerobically.
According to the EPA, "as yard wastes decompose in landfills, they generate methane gas and acidic leachate. Methane is a colorless, explosive greenhouse gas that is released as bacteria decompose organic materials in landfills."The significance, as the EPA explains, is that "methane (CH4) is a greenhouse gas that remains in the atmosphere for approximately 9-15 years. Methane is over 20 times more effective in trapping heat in the atmosphere than carbon dioxide (CO2)."
Regarding the scale of landfill-related methane, the EPA states: "Landfills are the largest human-related source of methane in the U.S., accounting for 34% of all methane emissions."
Furthermore, the EPA adds, "If methane is not controlled at a landfill, it can seep underground and into nearby buildings, where it has the potential to explode. Yard wastes also contribute acidity that can make other waste constituents more mobile and therefore more toxic."
In contrast, with conventional composting, air (oxygen) is one of the necessary ingredients. Little methane is released, with CO2 instead as the predominant gas released. Should we be worried about the CO2 generated from composting? Remember that when an equal volume of CO2 is released from waste that is composted instead of thrown in the trash, the atmospheric impact is only 5% of what it would have been at the dump.
The California EPA states that "CO2 emissions [as a result of composting] are considered "biogenic" by U.S. EPA and are not part of the overall GHG emissions inventory." Translation: the CO2 released by composting is considered part of a natural biological process, and not counted as a contributor of harmful man-made greenhouse-gas emissions. This isn't to say that composting does not emit greenhouse gases -the emissions are just categorized differently.
To read more on the emissions related to composting, here is a lighthearted post from the "Dear Abby" of environmentally-minded questions: "Global Worming: On Compost and Climate"
The first stage of Bokashi composting relies on an anaerobic environment inside an airtight container. According to a municipal government site in the UK, while "there are no exact statistics on methane production...the temperature reached in the [Bokashi] composting process is considerably less – 40ºC as opposed to 70ºC. This makes the methane emissions virtually negligible."
Composting has reduced the sheer quantity of matter that goes into the trash can, of course, but the main reason I make very few trips to the dumpster nowadays is because there is no offensive, rotting trash that must be removed from my home.
In the past, if I threw a single banana peel in the trash can under my kitchen sink, I would have to take out the trash within a day or so - even if the can was barely full. Otherwise, the entire apartment would smell musty, and fruit flies and ants would appear. Now, with all my food scraps contained in the Bokashi bucket or the freezer, I haven't seen any pests for weeks.
As far as non-food trash goes, I save most sturdy plastic tubs for storing food scraps in the freezer, and save most glass containers as well. I empty a single paper grocery bag of recycling about once a week, which contains a mix of paper and various containers (the city does not require us to separate out different types of recyclables).
The remaining trash now contains little else besides dental floss and facial tissue*, and I can't even remember the last time I had to take a bag out to the dumpster!
The juice was much lighter in color than the first time I drained it. I remembered to save some, and diluted it to water my houseplants (although I think the concentration was higher than the recommended 1%).
Everything still smells just fine, and the mold growing on the fermenting food is still white. Also, the contents of the bucket continue to settle (since I'm throwing it in frozen and bulky), so I think it's going to be quite a while until I have a finished batch to bury.
I've been dreaming of a little planter garden. I'm planning to get some used planters or tubs from craigslist or freecycle. Since the climate here is pretty mild in the winter, I'm excited to see what kinds of vegetables I can grow in a container. I'm hoping for tomatoes, cucumbers, basil, and mint.
I directed the spigot at my bathroom sink, which has been known to drain very slowly. It had gotten so bad recently, my landlord had to call a plumber. I had already tried home remedies, including baking soda and vinegar chased by boiling water, as well as a small hand plunger, to no avail. The drain was like this when I moved in a couple months ago, and I'm hoping that now that it's been cleared by a pro, I can use Bokashi juice to help prevent another clog.
As I started draining the juice into my sink, I got so carried away I forgot to save a little of the liquid to dilute and feed to my potted plants! Oh well, maybe next week.
The Bokashi juice was dark reddish brown, and slightly viscous. The closest analogy I can think of for the smell is soy sauce.
Additionally, I added another 2 layers of frozen food scraps to the bucket, and when I opened the lid, I was pleased to find that the smell inside the container was also inoffensive.
There was a fuzzy layer of white mold growing on the surface of last week's scraps, but I have been reassured this is normal. So far so good!
The bucket is still less than half full, and that's with 3 weeks worth of scraps. This means it will probably take about 6 weeks to fill it to the top - and I've read that the retail Bokashi buckets hold about 2 weeks' worth of scraps.
I'm not sure if my homemade bucket is just way larger than those, or if I just have less food scraps than what is "typical". That would be remarkable, considering we were just marveling at how MUCH food waste it seemed like was accumulating! One week's worth of food scraps takes up more than a quarter of the space in my freezer.
And yes, when I have food scraps from meals and snacks eaten at work, I do pack them up in plastic tubs and take them home! My coworkers already know I'm a nutty re-user/recycler (I'm the only one in my department who doesn't buy cases of bottled water to drink at my desk), so I haven't gotten any weird comments yet.
My Bokashi pile has produced only a very tiny layer of juice in the bottom of the bucket that I can see through the side - probably 1/4" or so - not enough to drain through the spigot.
I'm not too concerned, because my friend had mentioned that her Bokashi system also produced less liquid when she began storing her food scraps in the freezer.
Another thing to note is that there has indeed been NO odor!
If I put my face very close to the bucket, I get a faint whiff of bananas, but that's about it. I saw a fruit fly hovering over a pear core that was laying in the sink the other day - but none near the Bokashi bucket, which is out in the open just a few feet away.
Below you can see the containers of food scraps I had been saving in the freezer for about two weeks, as well as one of the 1-KG bags of Bokashi mix I had ordered.
As I had outlined previously in a post about basic Bokashi how-tos, the first step was to sprinkle a layer of Bokashi powder in the bottom of the inner bucket.
I then began adding food scraps and more Bokashi powder in layers. In total, we had three layers of frozen food scraps with a handful or two of Bokashi powder covering each layer.
Then, I used a plastic grocery bag to compress and cover the top of the pile before putting on the lid.
In case you decide to build your own Bokashi bucket using the same components I did, just know that the lid is very tight. It took a lot of effort to pry off the lid and push it back on, so I will probably continue to save food scraps in the freezer and add to my bucket weekly, not daily.
Lastly, I transferred the unused Bokashi powder to an empty plastic container, which is easier to use and keep airtight than the original ziplock bag. Below is the finished set up - ta da!
When nested, the inner bucket indeed rests above the spigot, as I had hoped. However, the end of the spigot itself is level with the bottom of the bucket. I decided to twist it so it's angled to the side instead of straight up and down, or else it will be touching the floor.
Here are some photos of the preliminary set-up. A friend lent me a drill, so I am going to put holes in the bottom of the inner bucket tonight.
I've been storing food scraps (mostly banana peels and egg shells) in the freezer for about a week, and it's getting surprisingly crowded in there! When my Bokashi mix arrives, I'll have plenty of material to start composting.By the way, I heard a rumor that Whole Foods carries Bokashi mix. I went to the Glendale location and spoke with associates in both the house cleaning and gardening departments - no one had any idea what Bokashi was.
I'll be researching and writing about the following topics in the meantime until I begin my own Bokashi project.
- Why should anyone compost, anyway? Why shouldn't food scraps go to the dump? Don't they just break down and disappear anyway?
- Why do we care about the end product - what does compost do to enrich the soil? What if I don't have a yard or garden?
- What exactly is "EM" - how does it work?
- How do you make your own Bokashi mix?
- Why do you want Bokashi to "pickle" your food, anyway? (What does "pickling" really mean?
- Similarly, why don't we just bury plain food scraps in the yard - why does it need to be fermented by Bokashi first?
- Does composting attract pests?
- Related topic - septic systems.
I had a glimmer of doubt about not ordering the prefab Bokashi bucket, but after pricing out everything including shipping, I found that the most cost-effective combination was to order the bucket components from "More Beer!" (a home beer-making supplier), and the Bokashi mix from Gaiam.
The complete Bokashi starter kit is $65.99 from SCD, but including standard UPS Ground shipping, it's $81.03, since SCD calculates shipping rates by weight.
The same starter kit is $75.00 from Gaiam, and with standard UPS Ground shipping (charged by order value instead of weight), it's $86.99.
Even though Gaiam's price per 1-gallon bag of Bokashi is $3.00 more than it is from SCD, Gaiam charges shipping rates based on your order value, and not the weight. Plus, they ship from Colorado instead of Missouri, saving my Bokashi mix 600 miles of travel (in addition, the beer-making equipment ships from the San Francisco Bay Area, which is only 300 miles from Los Angeles).
- 6-gallon bucket with spigot - $11.45
- Plain 6-gallon bucket - $7.95
- Lid - $1.75
- Shipping (UPS Ground from Concord, CA) - $9.26
- CA State Tax - $1.74
- Two 1-gallon bags of Bokashi mix - $12.00 each
- Shipping (UPS Ground from Louisville, CO) - $5.99
- Project Total - $62.14
With this combination, I was able to save about $20 and get an extra bag of Bokashi mix in the process! (Well, I had to order at least one more bag since it was $5.99 for shipping whether I ordered 1 bag or 2). Not bad at all!
- Sustainable Community Development (SCD) offers the "Happy Farmer Kitchen Composter" by itself for $59.99, or as a complete starter kit with a 1-gallon bag of Bokashi mix (normally $9.99 by itself) for $65.99. It's offered in tan with a green lid, all black, or "marble" (all white).
- Real Goods and Gaiam (same company) offer the same starter kit for $75.00, and the 1-gallon Bokashi mix refills for $12.00. Although they are more expensive, I'm listing them in case you want to check out all their other cool product offerings :)
- Al Pasternak, a dealer of "Biosa" brand EM, sells the above kit for $45.00 - but without a spigot - and only in Canada. His Bokashi refills are $15.00 a bag.
You can also make your own Bokashi buckets for a lot less. Click here to see an awesome DIY project by a man named Jay, who made his own Bokashi bucket out of a square tub that some kitty litter came in. Instead of nesting two buckets, he built a false bottom out of a piece of acrylic, and also added a spigot.
I don't have the tools to make such a fancy Bokashi pail, but after a bunch of digging around online, I came up with a very affordable source for buckets with a spigot already installed - from a home beer-brewing hobbyist site!
My plan is to drill holes in the bottom of a plain 6-gallon bucket, then nest it inside a bucket with a spigot.
- 6-gallon bucket with spigot: $11.45
- Plain 6-gallon bucket: $7.95
- Lid (very important!): $1.75
- Total: $21.15 + shipping (although I still have to order a bag of Bokashi mix)
- Space - at first, it seemed like a tie. A worm bin is roughly 2'W x 1.5'D x 1'H. A Bokashi Bucket is roughly 1' in diameter and 1.5' high - but in order to keep your system going (since a full bucket needs to sit for 2 weeks), many people recommended buying two, which would increase the footprint to 2' x 1'. However, both the Burbank recycling coordinator and my friend in Chicago advised that you can store your scraps in the freezer in the meantime - meaning I would only need one Bokashi bucket. Bokashi wins on space constraints.
- Container Price - The price of a pre-made worm bin ($100+ online, but $5-$50 from local recycle centers), can be lower than a prefab Bokashi bucket ($60+, from retailers only) - especially if you have more than one Bokashi bucket. However, the DIY price for making a worm bin or Bokashi bucket is about the same, so I'd call this one a tie.
- Organism Price - Once you buy your worms (about $20 for 1 lb.), they will reproduce and you should not have to buy more if you maintain your farm correctly. However, with Bokashi, you will need to buy or make your own Bokashi mix as you run out. If you purchase ready-made Bokashi powder, it's $9-12 for a 1 gallon bag. If you make your own, you will need EM culture and the base ingredients (molasses, wheat bran), as well as room to spread the mix out while it dries. Worm bin wins on the price of keeping your system going.
- Food Scrap Restrictions - With a worm bin, you cannot include meat, dairy, or anything oily (so no cooked foods). You are also supposed to avoid citrus fruit scraps, as the acidity is unsuitable for the worms. On the other hand, since the worms need fibrous bedding, a worm farm is a convenient way to recycle your newspapers. With a Bokashi system, you can include ALL food waste, including meat, bones, oily scraps, and citrus fruits. Although I eat very little meat, I often cook with oil. Bokashi wins on flexibility.
- Obtrusiveness - While a worm bin could technically be kept inside your apartment, and not just in a garage or patio, my particular apartment lacked the space. Even when the stairway alcove seemed secure (before my landlord cleaned it out), I was concerned with the possibility of a worm exodus. Apparently, if your worm bin becomes too wet or acidic, your worms will leave in droves to seek out a better environment. Now that could potentially be offensive to the other tenants in my building :) The Bokashi bin can be kept under the kitchen sink, and nothing will escape or bother anyone - Bokashi wins.
- Odor - Both systems are odorless when the bin is closed. As long as you cover food scraps with the bedding in your worm bin, there will be no noticeable odors. With the Bokashi system, the food scraps produce a sweet & sour, pickled smell, but not the decayed stench of rotting garbage. This one is also a tie.
- Finished Product - The worm castings are a finished product that will make your plants and the earth happy. The Bokashi product, however, still must be buried for a few weeks before it's done. My building does have a small lawn directly outside my window. Although it's not my own private yard, I can bury my scraps behind the bushes to finish the composting process. Others recommend keeping a tub or planter of soil to bury the pickled scraps. Vermicomposting wins on this front, as that method eliminates an extra step before final compost product.
Overall, although both methods had pros and cons, I decided that Bokashi composting would work better for my current situation, and this is the method I will be trying first.
- Buy or make a Bokashi bucket, to be used indoors. Bokashi buckets often have a little spigot near the bottom to drain out the liquid that is formed during fermentation. Or, they are made of nesting buckets, with the inside bucket having drainage holes to separate the liquid from the fermenting matter.
- Buy or make the Bokashi mix.
- Sprinkle a layer of Bokashi mix on the bottom of the bucket before adding food scraps.
- Every time you add food scraps (chopped up into small pieces), throw another handful of Bokashi mix on top.
- Then, cover with something (e.g. a plastic sheet or bag) and press down. This helps to keep air out of the fermenting material. Also, close the lid of the bucket tightly - keeping air out of the bucket is important in odor prevention.
- Drain the juice that accumulates in the bucket every couple days. The liquid can poured directly down the drain (supposedly this helps to clear out your drains by preventing algae buildup), or it can be diluted to a 1% solution with water and used to fertilize your house plants.
- When the bucket is filled to the top, let it sit for 2 weeks sealed. Continue to drain the liquid every couple days.
- After 2 weeks, it's time to open the container. The food scraps may still be the same size and shape as before - this is normal. There may be white mold growing - also normal.
- However, green or black mold is a sign that the fermentation did not happen correctly, and you need to throw your project in the trash and start over (try using more Bokashi powder between layers next time).
- Bury the pickled food waste in soil. This can either be done by digging a shallow trench outside, or indoors in a planter box or tub. This step is very important, as the food waste will not have decomposed yet - it is simply fermented.
- After another couple of weeks, the buried food scraps will have decomposed, and can now be used the same way worm castings or other compost would be used to enrich your garden.
- Buy or make a worm bin, which can be set up either indoors or outdoors (in the shade, and protected from temperature extremes)
- Buy 1 lb. of worms (approximately 1000 worms)
- Soak your bedding material (e.g. coconut fiber or shredded newspaper) in water, and squeeze it out until the moisture level resembles a wrung-out sponge
- Place the worms in the worm bin, on the damp bedding
- Add a handful of soil to add grit, which will aid in the worms' digestion
- Begin adding food scraps (chopped up into small pieces) on one side of the bin, under the bedding. Hiding the scraps under the bedding will help limit odors.
- Add new food scraps in sections, working your way across the bin.
- The worms will begin to create castings, which fall to the lower layer of the bin.
- Collect the castings and continue adding new bedding and food.
- The castings can be combined with potting soil at a ratio of 1:2, which can be sprinkled on your garden, or used to pot new plants.
Bokashi composting apparently originated in Japan, where much of the population lives in compact spaces within urban areas. Therefore, the Bokashi composting method seems inherently suitable for my tiny studio living situation.
A few obstacles needed to be tackled first:
- Where would I get a worm bin?
- Where would I store my worm bin?
The City of Long Beach sells nice, tiered worm bins at a discounted rate of $45 for Long Beach residents. The City of Los Angeles offers an even more basic worm bin for only $5! Unfortunately, I am a resident of the City of Burbank, so I don't qualify for either.
The City of Burbank leads composting workshops and sells composting bins, but they no longer offer worm bins.
Online retailers generally seem to offer worm bins for over $100 (!). There are also many sites that provide instructions on how to build your own worm bin, so I was considering going the DIY route.
However, the second concern - where would I keep my worm bin - is what led me to choose Bokashi composting instead.
As I mentioned previously, my apartment is under 300 sq ft. The main room is about 10.5" x 14", and is dominated by my queen bed. The kitchen is about 8" x 10", which is generous for such a small unit. However, there doesn't seem to be a convenient place on the floor where the worm farm could live without interfering with traffic flow.
In my small apartment building, I share a stairwell with only two other units. There is a small alcove under the stairs that had been neglected for a while, housing an abandoned kitty litter box, an old bath mat, and other junk. I envisioned my new worm farm here - safe from the hot sun, and out of the other tenants' way.
However, earlier this week my landlord suddenly went on an unprecedented cleaning spree, and out went the kitty litter box and other orphaned items that had long called the alcove home! Now I wasn't so sure that my worm farm would be safe there after all.
I began researching Bokashi composting instead, which I had heard about from a very cool friend of a friend who lives in a Chicago studio. My next post will outline the pros and cons of vermicomposting and Bokashi composting for my living situation.
I was interested in composting kitchen scraps in order to reduce the amount I was adding to the waste stream. My previous apartments had kitchen sink garbage disposals, so that was where much of my food waste was going.
Most books and websites I initially found seemed geared toward traditional composting involving large volumes of yard waste, like leaves and grass clippings - this was not applicable to me.
I shelved the idea for a while, and in the meantime moved to my current studio. My new studio lacks a garbage disposal, so I had been trapping food scraps with a plastic sink strainer, then throwing them in the trash. I also no longer have a parking garage or other private, shady spot, so I knew I would have to keep my composting container indoors.
Last weekend, on Sunday, October 5, there was a festival in Long Beach called "University by the Sea," which had a series of workshops including an introduction to composting. The composting seminar was led by Lisa Harris, the (very enthusiastic) City of LB recycling specialist. It was so helpful to get an overview in person and to be able to ask questions. Lisa helped me clearly understand what kind of composting would be appropriate for apartment life.
I've been in the process of trying to apply the Reduce-Reuse-Recycle mantra to as many aspects of my life as possible.
For about 4 years I lived in various 1-BR apartments. While these apartments were great for throwing dinner parties and hosting guests, when I was by myself there was more space than I needed. Downsizing to my current apartment - a cozy studio that's smaller than 300 sq ft including the kitchen and bathroom - was one step toward minimizing my lifestyle.
My current project is composting kitchen waste in my apartment - specifically using the Bokashi system - which I am going to document in this blog.